Sumire
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Ramen may be one of the most popular types of food among many Japanese people. Moreover, in my experience, ramen is easy to find even overseas as long as you are in a big city. However, what I could not stand when I tried ramen outside Japan was that it was often served with noodles that had already become soft, a condition known as 'nobiru (のびる)' in Japanese. If such ramen were served in Japan, absolutely no Japanese person would accept it. I know it does not matter to many people abroad as I saw my non-Japanese friends looking quite delighted while eating such 'soft' ramen. Having said that, this is the one exception I cannot tolerate - even though I am usually open to differences in food overseas.
As a child, my parents told me, 'Stop talking! Eat quickly, otherwise the noodles will get 'soft'!'. So, when you try ramen in Japan, please focus on eating - avoid chatting too much or taking too many photos. This is only my personal recommendation, though.
Since graduating from university in Sapporo, plenty of restaurants have appeared and disappeared. Nearly all the places I used to frequent have closed down.
Nonetheless, some of them have survived the global financial crisis in 2008, the downturn following the Tohoku Earthquake in 2011 and the pandemic in 2020. This is a testament to how these restaurants have been loved by locals.
So, I would like to briefly introduce a few of my favourites on this blog, although the information is admittedly quite personal. What matters most is that they have managed to stay open despite the hardships.
Additionally, the restaurants that I post are very common and well-known among locals, so the staff may not be particularly comfortable serving customers in other languages. This can be a great opportunity to try speaking in Japanese.
Sumire (すみれ), Susukino Branch
According to the official webpage (in Japanese), it originates from a ramen restaurant known as Sumire (純連: すみれ) opened in 1964, later changed its name to Junren (純連: じゅんれん). One of the son of the founder began a separated ramen restaurant, also Sumire, in 1989.
Address：
060-0063, 2nd Floor, PyXis building, 3-3, Chuoh-ku, Sapporo
Map: Sumire, Susukino, Sapporo
Business Hours：
17:00 to 24:00
※ Closed at irregular times
Category：
Ramen
★★★★★ : Quality
★★★★★ : Cost
★★★★★ : Access
★★★★☆ : Atmosphere
★★★★☆ : Cleanliness
★★★★★ : Menu
Although it is a branch location, it is very easy to access. The restaurant is just a one-minute walk from Susukino Crossing, one of the most popular spots in Sapporo, The Susukino subway station lies directly beneath the crossing, making it highly convenient for public transport users to visit Sumire.
Image: Susukino Crossing, Susukino, Sapporo - April 2018
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However, it is common to see a long queue formed by both locals and tourists. If you are visiting during the winter season, please bear in mind to dress appropriately for the cold weather.
Sumire (すみれ), Main Branch
The original restaurant is located in Nakanoshima, just three stops from Susukino Station on the Sapporo subway. However, it requires a ten-minute walk from Nakanoshima Station, so taking a taxi from the city centre may be a covenient option. Images of the main branch can be viewed on the official website (in Japanese).
Image: Shoyu ramen, Nakanoshima, Sapporo - December 2019
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Address：
062-0922, 2-4, Nakanoshima, Toyohira-ku, Sapporo
Map: Sumire, Nakanoshima, Sapporo
Business Hours：
11:00 to 15:00, 16:00 to 21:00 (April to October)
11:00 to 15:00, 16:00 to 20:00 (November to March)
Category：
Ramen
★★★★★ : Quality
★★★★★ : Cost
★★★☆☆ : Access
★★★★★ : Atmosphere
★★★★☆ : Cleanliness
★★★★★ : Menu
I often visited the Susukino branch when going for drinks with close friends in the city centre, whereas I have only been to the Naknoshima restaurant a few times, as far as I can recall. This is largely because the Susukino location is so conveniently situated. Having said that, we frequently gave up on having Sumire ramen after seeing the long queue, especially during winter. If you find yourself in a similar situation, there is no need to insist on Sumire, as there are plenty of other options around Susukino.
If you are keen not to miss out on trying Sumire ramen during your stay in Sapporo, I would recommend avoiding a late visit to the Susukino branch, particularly after 21:00. As for the main branch, it is best to steer clear around midday.
Actually, ramen comes in a wide variety of soup bases, noodles and flavours. Once you become hooked on eating ramen in Japan, you may find yourself on a never-ending journey with no clear destination. However, this is one of the most appealing aspects of ramen in Japan - much like Japanese sake - so simply enjoy trying different types of ramen across Japan.
There are many categories, ranging from broader ones - such as 'Kyushu ramen' or 'Hokkaido ramen' - to more specific types like 'Sapporo ramen' and 'Asahikawa ramen' within Hokkaido. (In addition, further classifications can be found.) I am not particularly concerned with the categories myself, but some people are very familiar with them. Nevertheless, you do not need to worry about that, because what truly matters is whether or not you enjoy it.
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