DRIVE IN HOKKAIDO

Hokkaido was once considered one of the dangerous prefectures in Japan for driving, having frequently ranked worst in the number of fatal accidents. However, traffic accidents began to decline significantly after peaking in 2001. Consequently, the death toll also dropped, and Hokkaido has not ranked worst since 2003 to date.

Graph: Number of Deaths and Traffic Accidents in Hokkaido

Figure compiled by the author using data provided by the Hokkaido Traffic Safety Association.

(一般社団法人北海道交通安全協会)

1950 to 1970

Looking at the graph above, we can observe a sharp increase in both the death toll and the number of accidents between 1950 and 1970. This period is known as 'Kohdo-keizai-seicho-ki (高度経済成長期: こうどけいざいせいちょうき)', meaning 'a period of significant economic growth' and is often referred to as 'the Japanese economic miracle'. This surge in  economic activity led to a significant increase not only in Japan's population but also in vehicle sales. The graph below shows the population and the number of traffic accidents in Hokkaido from 1950 to 2015, plotted at five-year interval. The second graph illustrates the number of registered Toyota vehicles in Japan between 1950 and 2010, along with their market share. As the market share remains relatively stable throughout the period, the changes in vehicle numbers may serve as a useful indicator of overall cars sales across the country. 

Graph: Number of People and Traffic Accidents in Hokkaido

Estimated population compiled by the author using data provided by the e-Stat,

the Portal Site of Official Statistics of Japan.

Graph: Number of Registered Vehicles in Japan (only Toyota cars)

Figure compiled by the author using data shown on the webpage by Toyota Motor Company.

The significant rise in both vehicle ownership and the population may have been a key factor behind the high number of accidents in 1970. As incomes grew, living standards also improved. By the late 1960s, car ownership had become more widespread, and travelling by car gained popularity among the public. At the same time, the Japanese Government actively promoted infrastructure development across the country. In Hokkaido, for example, a new route for Nakayama Tohge (中山峠: なかやまとうげ), part of Route 230 connecting Sapporo with the Niseko area, was constructed in 1969. This route features the strikingly curved Muine Bridge (無意根大橋: むいねおおはし), a scenic highlight of the area.   

Image: Muine Bridge (Route 230)- October 1969

Many people gathered to see the bridge at the weekend shortly after the route opened, though it was a fair distance from the city centre. Before the bridge was built, drivers had to take an alternative route to reach Nakayama Tohge from Sapporo - one that was unpaved and full of sharp bends. That said, it is hard to imagine the completion of a new bridge drawing such crowds today. In other words, this example hints at the extent to which driving shaped people's lifestyle at the time. This has now been selected as one of the 15 excellent roads.

1980 to 2020

On the other hand, following a sharp decline towards 1975 - thanks to concerted societal efforts - the number of accidents rose again during the 1980s, coinciding with the economic bubble period, called 'baburu-keiki (バブル景気)'. However, car sales peaked in 1990 and have been decreasing ever since. On top of that, Hokkaido's population has also begun to decrease over the past few decades. These factors have contributed to the continued reduction in traffic accidents.

While the annual death toll from car accidents in Hokkaido has steadily fallen to around 100, approximately 9,000 incidents still occur each year in the 2020s. It remains essential to drive safely across Hokkaido.

Koku-doh and Doh-doh

Broadly speaking, there are two main types of roads in Hokkaido: 'Koku-doh (国道: こくどう)' and 'Doh-doh (道道: どうどう)'. Koku-doh, meaning 'national road' is managed and maintained by the national government, with maintenance and repair costs covered by the central government. In contrast, Doh-doh, or 'prefectural road', is overseen by the Hokkaido government. 

*国土交通省, 道路の種類 (Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism: Road types)

These two categories are simplified examples of road classifications. There are further distinctions within Koku-doh and Doh-doh, but I shall refrain from explaining them here to avoid unnecessary confusion.  

Image: Koku-doh 273 go-sen (国道273号線/ Route 273) - July 2012

Koku-doh is marked with a rounded triangular signboard, likened to the shape of onigiri. You will also see blue rectangular boards indicating distances to nearby cities, actually not 'nearby', -  these are often called 'Ao-kan (青看: あおかん)', which literally means 'blue board'. 

In fact, as long as you follow these blue signposts, you can navigate Hokkaido without relying on a GPS system. This is not an exaggeration - given Hokkaido's vast landmass, there are relatively few alternative routes between towns and cities.

Generally speaking, Koku-doh is better maintained and wider than Doh-doh, largely due to differences in financial resources and administrative responsibility.

I would like to introduce a few examples. The first two images show Koku-doh - one is Route 5, and the other is Route 243. Both had already been paved by 1969 and 1972, respectively.

Image: Koku-doh 5 (国道５号線/ Route 5) in Oshamambe - Winter 1969

Image: Koku-doh 243 (国道243号線/ Route 243) Bihoro-tohge - Summer 1972

Next two photos feature Doh-doh and Koku-doh. The first one looks as if it promises an exciting drive but it was actually quite frightening to handle the car, according to my father. Its current condition can be viewed on Google Map. (Orofuro-tohge: オロフロ峠)

The second photo shows an unpaved straight road near Lake Nukabira (current condition). Gravel roads like this were still common in Hokkaido even in the 1980s. Moreover, some Doh-doh are still closed during the snow season today - for instance, Doh-doh 66, known as the Niseko Panorama Line. 

Image: Orofuro-tohge (former Doh-doh 2: 旧道道２号線) - Around 1974

Image: Koku-doh 273 (国道273号線/ Route 273) in Kamishihoro - Summer 1974

Doh-doh is identified with hexagonal signboards, so you can tell which type of road you are driving on when you spot one.

Image: Signpost showing Doh-doh 66, Niseko Panorama Line - August 2025

Image: Niseko Panorama Line, Doh-doh 66 (道道66号線) - August 1984

Michi-no-eki

Talking about a drive in Hokkaido, you simply cannot tell the story without mentioning Michi-no-eki (道の駅: みちのえき/ Roadside rest area). The concept - roadside stations with toilets and facilities for drivers, much like railway stations - was first launched in 1990. Hokkaido registered its first Michi-no-eki, Mikasa, in 1993. 

*History of Michi-no-eki (Hokkaido Development, Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourismt)

道の駅の歴史（北海道開発局　国土交通省）

Originally designed to support rural economies, Michi-no-eki now also plays an important role in offering drivers a place to rest and recharge.

Image: Michi-no-eki Assabu - August 2025 / Car: Volvo

Moreover, each Michi-no-eki has its own unique features, so everyone can enjoy shopping there. In many cases, you can purchase local food, such as seafood, vegetables, sweets and Japanese sake. 

Image: A map of Michi-no-eki Rankoshi - August 2025

A drive through Hokkaido may not always reveal what you expect, depending on the weather. That is why, I would recommend taking the same route each summer - you will gradually uncover beauty that goes far beyond your expectations.

Image: Iwanai Bay from Niseko Panorama Line - August 1984

Image: Iwanai Bay from Niseko Panorama Line - August 2000

Image: Iwanai Bay from Niseko Panorama Line - August 2014