Niseko Annupuri

 Image: The Summit of Niseko Annupuri - January 2002

Niseko Annupuri ( 1,309 metres/4,294 feet ) is the most prominent mountain in the Niseko ski resorts. 'Nupuri' means 'mountain' in the Ainu language and Nisekoannupuri means 'a mountain with a sheer cliff and a river flowing around it'. ( Source: Niseko Town ) 

In the 1990s, some non-Japanese visitors - especially Australians - started travelling to Niseko for skiing or snowboarding. Consequently, Niseko took off in the 2000s. Before long, the area had turned into a popular winter destination from all over the world. Ironically, during the same period, the number of Japanese people participating in skiing or snowboarding was in decline. For example, Tsukahara et al. (2011) reported a reduction in the number of lift rides at ski resorts in the Sapporo area between 1998 and 2009.

Image: Changes in Lift Ride Numbers at Sapporo Ski Resorts (1998 - 2009)

Trends in Total Ski Lift Usage Across Sapporo’s Six Ski Resorts, Teine, Bankei, Moiwa, Makomanai, Fu's snow area and Sapporo Kokusai ski resorts.

Figure compiled by the author using data from A Descriptive Study on Dynamic State and Current Situation regarding Snow Sport Population in Sapporo (Tsukahara et al., 2011)

Since then, non-Japanese visitors have been the key contributors of winter who keep Niseko buzzing during the winter season. Due to changing circumstances, the Niseko area has shifted its resort concept to better cater to foreign visitors.

Niseko Annupuri International Ski Area has played a key role in offering skiers and snowboarders an enjoyable experience throughout the winter season. 

When I was a little child in the 1980s, it was rare to see non-Japanese skiers, and my parents enjoyed chatting with skiers who happened to share the same gondola - especially if they spoke in a different dialect. Back then, we often saw many Japanese visitors from outside Hokkaido, such as the Kansai region.

In contrast, once the 2010s arrived, my parents met two gentlemen in the gondola who were speaking a language they had never heard before. My father asked where they were from, and they said they were Swedish.

When my father told me the story, I was genuinely surprised - I had never imagined that people from Northern Europe would come all the way to ski at Niseko Annupuri.

Image: Annupuri from the gondola - January 2013

Moreover, as a child, I would often ski at Niseko Annupuri in May, called 'Haru ski (spring ski)' during Golden Week, Japan's spring holiday period. Whether we could ski depended on how much snow remained in May but the weather was mild enough that heavy winter gear was not needed, and that lightness brought a wonderful sense of openness.

Image: Haru ski in Niseko Annupuri - May 1991

I would say my ski skills were shaped in Niseko Annupuri, but the view of Annupuri I love most is from Niseko Moiwa Ski Resort. That angle is my favourite.

Image: Niseko Annupuri from Niseko Moiwa - January 2011

Weather permitting, Annupuri gives a breathtaking panorama to all who visit. After enjoying the view, we descended the slope towards the mountain foot of Annupuri, following course known as Mikaeri-zaka (見返り坂: みかえりざか). It was a my favourite. 

This course includes long flat sections at both the start and the finish. So it was usually less people. However, if there is less powder snow this season, I would avoid skiing on this course.

Image: Mikaeri-zaka - January 2019

After leaving Hokkaido, I tried to go snowboarding in Niseko whenever I had a chance to stay in Sapporo during winter and I always chose Annupuri. As far as I know, Hirafu is the most popular area among both Japanese and international visitors mainly due to its heavy snowfall. So I tend to avoid the more crowded areas and still prefer Niseko Annupuri or Niseko Moiwa Ski Resort.

 

Graph: 3-year Average Snowfall 

Figure complied by the author using data provided by POWDER SNOW HOKKAIDO.

Image: Niseko Annupuri - December 2010

However, thanks to the influx of overseas visitors and the weak yen, prices are going up - from lift tickes to items sold at convenience stores in the Niseko area. As a result, winter sports in Niseko have become increasingly out of reach for many Japanese people.

Image: Niseko Annupuri - January 2009

Nonetheless, Annupuri always brings back plenty of memories from my childhood and university days whenever I visit. On top of that, its enduring beauty is ever-present-through at times, it sometimes surprises us with unimaginable snowfall or storm, though.

Image: The view at the gondola station - December 2013

Image: Pleasant view from Annupuri - December 2009

Image: Heavy snowfall in Niseko Annupuri - December 2008

One more reason I love Annupuri is that its name does not sound Japanese to many Japanese people - which I reckon really cool. It is surrounded by Moiwa, Higashiyama, Hirafu and Hanazono, all of which have distinctly Japanese-sounding names.

Visiting Annupuri now feels like taking a winter trip overseas. I showed an international visitor how to use the vending machine and guided a lost New Zealander along the Mikaeri-zaka course back to Annupuri.

These positive experiences would have been unimaginable back in the 1980s.

  Image: Niseko Annupuri International Ski Area - Winter 1986

 

I know there is not necessarily only a positive side to it but the dramatic changes in Annupuri have made my memories stand out even more.

I have also tried Annupuri a few times in summer, though never on foot. So I would love to reach the summit without taking the gondola if I get the chance.

Image: Yohtei from Annupuri - August 2022