Moiwa-yama

Image: View from Mount Moiwa - May 1970

Some of you might associate 'Moiwa' with Moiwa Ski Resort in Niseko, but actually, Mount Moiwa (藻岩山: Moiwayama) sits quietly in the heart of Sapporo as some locals call 'Mother Mountain (母なる山)'.  Confusingly, there is also a ski resort in Moiwayama. It just 30-minute taxi ride from Sapporo Station (さっぽろ駅).

Image: View from Mount Moiwa - July 2025

The image above shows Makomanai (真駒内), with an ice arena under construction visible at the centre of the 1970 photo. (the black one) This was being built for the upcoming 1972 Winter Olympics in Sapporo, which had originally planned in 1940 but was cancelled due to the Second World War, according to Sapporo Olympic Museum.

Image: Makomanai Ice Arena - July 2025

Moiwayama rises to 531 metres, and a cable car carries visitors to its summit. However, I would recommend trekking from spring through to autumn, because the route is not at all demanding, and can be comfortably completed within a little over an hour, leaving you with a pleasant sense of tiredness. Additionally, the landscape of Sapporo from the summit will make you glad you came, with Ishikari Bay (石狩湾: Ishikari-wan) seen on the horizon.

Image: View from Mount Moiwa - Autumn 1977

Image: View from Mount Moiwa - July 2025

The observation deck offers not only a panoramic view but also unique souvenirs. If you reach the shop on foot, it might feel like a small reward, allowing you to choose your favourite from a wide array of items. Actually, I did not expect that I would be unable to resist buying bits and bobs once I stepped into the shop.

Image: Souvenir shop in the observation deck - July 2025

Consequently, I bought a T-shirt for my Taiwanese friend, some magnets for my Hungarian and Japanese friends and a mint oil spray for my parents. Among the displayed T-shirts, there was a variety of designs and I wanted one with Japanese writing. I chose one with 'Moiwa' printed on it. Honestly, there was a nicer one I liked, but unfortunately, it was only available in size S.   

Image: Souvenirs

Mint oil, distributed by a company based in Kitami (北見), Hokkaido, is popular among locals but apparently not well known in other parts of Japan. Kitami was the world's leading producer of mint in 1938, according to the company's website (in Japanese). This legacy continues to bind the city to the mint industry. 

The spray can be used in various ways - in tea, liquor, baths and so on. However, we use it primarily as a bug repellent. It is suitable for spraying on your arms or neck when hiking Mount Moiwa in summer and its scent may also help you relax. 

*This company's FACEBOOK page

Image: Mint oil spray (ハッカ油: Hakka-yu / ¥1,188: US$8)

The reason I bought the magnet shown in the image below is simply because it was cute. It features three birds called Shimaenaga, which are commonly seen - but only within Hokkaido, in Japan. 

A wide variety of goods awaits you, so I am sure you will find something you like.

Image: Magnet with 'シマエナガ' (Shimaenaga / ¥220: US$1.5)

Regarding the hiking courses, there are five routes, and here I introduce one of them - the Jikeikai Hospital Front course (慈恵会病院前コース: Jikeikai Byoin-mae course). The easiest way to reach this entrance by public transport is to take a bus to the Keimei Terminal (啓明ターミナル), followed by a ten-minute walk. The terminal is the final stop for buses serving this area, so there is no need to worry about missing your stop - if you boad the bus at N10 Horohira-bashi Subway Station (N10幌平橋駅) on the Namboku Line (green line). The corresponding bus stop is  Horohira-bashi eki-mae (幌平橋駅前). No matter which side of the stop you board from, the bus will take you to Keimei Terminal in the end.

Image: Keimei Bus Terminal - July 2025

In fact, there are several bus routes that go to the Keimei Terminal but these four are the simplest to follow:

Keimei 55 (啓明55): timetable 

Keimei 56 (啓明56): timetable

Keimei 65 (啓明65): timetable

Keimei 66 (啓明65): timetable

The timetables are in Japanese, but you will probably be able to recognise the bus times without much trouble.

Each linked video begins with just before the Horohira-bashi eki-mae stop. Although the videos are hosted on a Japanese site, they may still be useful in helping you understand the routes in advance. If you board any of these buses, you are guaranteed to reach the Keimei Terminal.

Please bear in mind that the bus services are extremely limited on Saturdays, Sundays and Japanese public holidays. I would therefore recommend planning your excursion on a weekday.

This 'Eki-Bus navi' app can be helpful for checking the routes or fares. However, as is often the case, Japanese-English websites can be challenging for many foreign users - they are often hard to use and understand. Personally, I also find it unfriendly and confusing. These difficulties mainly arise from the significant differences between the two languages. Japanese and English are among the most linguistically distant languages from each other. If you are a Japanese learner, you probably know that already.

It is also part of what makes Japan unique, so just enjoy such difficulties during your trip in Japan.

Image: Eki-Bus navi

On Japanese city buses, they typically have two doors: passengers board through the rear door and off at the front. Fares are paid when getting off. If you are using an IC card (a prepaid transport card, not a credit card), you must tap it on the reader as you get on the bus. This is the related website about how to get on and off a bus in Sapporo. 

If you transfer from the subway to a bus, you will receive a small discount. When using an IC card, the reduced fare is applied automatically. For cash payment, however, the ticket will not include any discount. So, I would recommend purchasing an IC card if you plan to use public transport frequently.

Once arrive at the Keimei Terminal, simply head  straight up the slope towards the mountain. You will reach the entrance in about ten minutes.

Image: The slope linking the entrance - July 2025

Image: Almost there - August 2025

Image: The entrance of Jikeikai Byoin-mae course (There is a toilet and tap water here) July 2025

For your short journey, it is recommended to bring a bottle of water or tea, along with a change of clothes and a towel. More importantly, be sure to wear suitable trekking shoes - the trail becomes increasingly steep and can be quite slippery as you ascend.

While hiking, it is customary to greet fellow walkers as you pass. In such cases, you can say 'Kon-ni-chi-wa (こんにちは)', meaning 'hello' or 'hi'. If it is early in the morning, people may say 'O-ha-yoh-go-za-i-ma-su (おはようございます)'. It is a little longer, but 'Kon-ni-chi-wa' will still be perfectly fine.

You will come across Kannon-sama (観音様: a form of the Goddess of Mercy) on your way to the summit, as there are said to be 33 along the route. Each one is numbered, so if you are familiar with Japanese kanji numerals, you might enjoy tracking your progress by counting them as you climb.

Image: 2nd Kannon-sama (二番目の観音様) - July 2025

One more important thing, when you reach the check point with some benches, make sure to take the left-hand path -  otherwise, you will end up in a different mountain park.

Image: Check point with a sign board - July 2025

By choosing this path, time during the short journey to Mount Moiwa seems to flow more gently than it would by cable car or taxi. It may not seem extraordinary, but walking with someone you care about can leave behind a memory that stays. 

Of course, the cable car is the way to go if you are hoping to see the night view.

Image: Summit of Mt Moiwa - July 2025

Image: Mt Moiwa from Munich Bridge - August 2020