SEASONS IN HOKKAIDO

Image: Oshima - July 2011

Hokkaido offers defined four seasons - spring, summer, autumn and winter. Our new life stages always begin with spring, especially April. It feels as if our lifestyle follows the cycle of the natural environment. 

I remember feeling quite disappointed when I started living in Aichi Prefecture after graduating from university because the four seasons did not feel as distinct to me.

APRIL

Spring in Sapporo, for example, always begins with the melting of snow and some impatient flowers poke their heads out of the ground revealed beneath it.

The image below shows one of them - crocuses.

Image: Toyohira-ku, Sapporo - April 2009

Moreover, spring is an ideal season for fishing hokke (ホッケ/ atka mackerel) and the best way to prepare it fresh is by frying. I remember that no one at my work place in Aichi Prefecture had ever heard of eating fried hokke, probably because fresh hokke is hard to come by there.

I once went fishing with my parents at one of popular fishing spots, the one shown below. However, I fell into a large pothole filled with seawater, just behind me, because I instinctively stepped back when a sudden medium-sized wave splashed towards me. As a result, I ended up standing in water up to my waist. 

It was so cold.

Image: Fishing spot, Shimamaki - April 2007 (Some of the puddles are actually potholes)

Image: Fishing spot at Cape Benkei, Suttu - April 2009

Hokke is a migratory fish, so my parents often came back with loads of hokke. There is a network among fishing enthusiasts. Usually, someone stays in touch with others fishing at different locations. So once new information comes through a phone call - 'the school of hokke is here!' - everyone starts cleaning and stowing their fishing gear, then drive to the reported location, as if they too were migratory fish.

In this way, many fishing enthusiasts enjoy the spring season.

Graph: Average Temperature in Sapporo (1980 - 2024)

Figure compiled by the author using data provided by Japan Meteorological Agency.

Having said that, in terms of temperature, April is still far from warm. According to the graph above, the temperature in Sapporo barely reaches 10 degrees Celsius (These figures represent averages calculated from 1980 to 2024).

Thus, although the best season for sakura - the most prominent flower of spring in Japan - falls between the end of March and the beginning of April in most regions of the country, sakura in Hokkaido do not follow this typical pattern. 

MAY

Image: Sakura (桜:さくら) at Makomanai Park - 3rd May 2019

Tree: Ezo-yama-zakura (エゾヤマザクラ)

Ezo = Hokkaido

Yama = Maountain

Zakura = Sakura

The image of sakura above was taken at the beginning of May at Makomanai Park in Sapporo, where the 1972 Winter Olympic Games were held. 

I remember that when I was a university student, my friends and I held hanami (花見: はなみ) in Maruyama Park during Golden Week - Japan's spring holidays from the end of April to the beginning of May -  but not a single sakura tree was in bloom and it was rather cold to stay outside chatting for a long time.

What I did like when I was living outside Hokkaido was seeing the Someiyoshino (染井吉野 or ソメイヨシノ), a variety of sakura tree and the most popular one in Japan. This type accounts for many of sakura trees found across the country. Interestingly, all Someiyoshino are clones of a single original tree that dates back to the Edo period. 

On the other hand, there are not as many Someiyoshino in Hokkaido as in Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu. The most common variety may be the Ezo-yama-zakura, which tends to appear less densely in bloom compared to the Someiyoshino.

The following images show Someiyoshino outside Hokkaido.

Image: Someiyoshino, Kitakyushu (Kyushu) - 27th March 2021/ Car: FAIRLADY Z

Image: Someiyoshino, Bizan (眉山:びざん), Tokushima (Shikoku) - 4th April 2010

Image: Yo-zakura(夜桜:よざくら), Someiyoshino, Nagoya (Honshu) - 26th March 2018

I have an experience that I have never forgotten. Once, I asked my mother - who truly loves flowers - why we did not have a sakura tree in our garden. She replied, 'Who do you think cleans up all the fallen petals? I do not like sakura because their blooming period is too short.'

Yes, the beautiful moment of sakura is indeed fleeting and it is equally true that the clean-up afterwards can be rather troublesome.

Also, May is a suitable season for sports. Most primary schools and preschools in Hokkaido have traditionally held Undohkai (運動会: うんどうかい/ sports day) in May. 

For example, in Sapporo, 161 out of 197 primary schools held their sports day in May in 2025, according to the City of Sapporo (Japanese source on 18th in April, 2025). 

    Image: Preschool Undohkai (sprots day) at Hokkaido University - Spring 1977

Generally, many schools in other regions of Japan hold undohkai in autumn, but they are gradually shifting the schedule to spring.

JUNE

I believe that June is the best season in Hokkaido and I love this month because it offers more sunny days than July, and less rainfall than both July and August. In addition, unlike Honshu, Shikoku, Kyushu and Okinawa, Hokkaido does not experience a rainy season, which typically starts in June in other regions of the country. That is why, June in Hokkaido is not sticky at all. In contrast, there is Tsuyu (梅雨: つゆ/ a rainy season) in Nagoya where I used to live and I really hated that season.

April and May also appear to have good weather, according to the graph below, but again, it is still rather cold during both months.     

Whatever you choose to do, June is the most comfortable month in Hokkaido, except, perhaps, for swimming in the sea.

Average Sunny days and Rainfall in Sapporo (1991 - 2020)

*Figure compiled by the author using data of sunny days and rainfall provided by Japan Meteorological Agency. *Sunny days mean the number of days when sunshine duration exceeds 40% of the possible sunshine duration. *These figures represent averages calculated from 1991 to 2020.

Image:  - June 2011

Perhaps June is a pleasant season not only for us but also for many living things in Hokkaido. You can see a butterfly enjoying her meal in the picture above. Flowers also seem delighted to see her.

Butterfly: Miyama-karasu-ageha (ミヤマカラスアゲハ)

Miyama = Deep in the moutains

Karasu = Crow

Ageha = Typical category name of butterflies in Japan

Flower: Shiba-zakura (芝桜: しばざくら)/ flowers like sakura on the ground

JULY

The real summer in Hokkaido begins in July, when the songs of ezoharuzemi (エゾハルゼミ/ spring cicadas) are replaced by those of summer cicadas, such as ezozemi (エゾゼミ). The number of hot days is gradually increasing and children cannot wait for the summer holidays.

Image: Ezoharuzemi (エゾハルゼミ) - June 2011

The fields begin to brighten with green, and the crops grow on towards harvest time.

Image: Abashiri - July 2006

In Sapporo, the Odori Beer Garden opens in the city centre in July and fireworks are held along the Toyohira River and in Makomanai Park.

AUGUST

This month may be special for everyone in Japan. Many companies are on summer holiday - especially during the Obon period, which falls around the 13th to the 15th of August - and children are eager to visit their grandparents during the break.

Interestingly, children never say 'grandfather's house' - they always say 'grandmother's house'. That is not to say grandfather has passed away, of course.

During the Obon period, most Japanese people visit graves to pay their respects to their ancestors.

As a child, my family visited graves in Sapporo and Otaru every summer - one for father's ancestors and the other for mother's. I remember feeling nothing as I prayed in front of the gravestones, because none of the names carved into them belonged to anyone I had ever met.

However, it makes sense to me now - not only as a custom, but also as a way of forming, feeling and remembering the family bond - even with those I had never met.

Now, some of the names on the graves belong to people I actually knew.

Image: Graveyard, Otaru - 13th August 2018

Another tradition during the Obon period that is gradually disappearing is Bon-odori (盆踊り: ぼんおどり/ Obon dances). According to Public Relations Office the Government of Japan, Bon-odri has been performed for several centuries across Japan, by people of all ages and genders. Participants typically dance in circle around yagura, dressed in yukata and wearing a pair of geta.

The details of the event vary depending on the region. In my area, it continued two or three nights in a raw, accompanied by the sound of wadaiko and a special song. I remember that after 8 pm, the music changed and the adults started dancing, while the children danced until 8 pm to the original song - one that I can still sing to this day.

Sadly it is no longer held in that location as the number of children has dramatically declined.

Image: Bon-odori (盆踊り: ぼんおどり) in a park - August 1985

Generally, the temperature sharply drops after the Obon period, making it the last opportunity to swim in the sea. In recent years, this has not always been the case due to the effects of climate change. Nevertheless, people tend to avoid swimming after Obon anyway as large number of jellyfish begin to appear in the ocean.

Thus, saying goodbye to Obon used to signify saying goodbye to summer in Hokkaido.

Image: Shioya Beach, Otaru - August 1980

Additionally, during the summer holidays, it is quite common for children to enjoy temochi-hanabi (手持ち花火: てもちはなび/ handheld fireworks). Of course, at least one adult was always present to keep an eye on them.

Image: Handheld fireworks, wearing yukata, Sapporo- August 1979

Image: Handheld fireworks, Niseko - August 1977

SEPTEMBER

In Hokkaido, the leaves begin to turn yellow and red in September and, interestingly, both rainfall and the number of sunny days tend to increase. (See the graph in the chapter on June)

Looking at the graph below, however, we can see that the temperature trend has shifted around the year 2000. The average temperature has been rising.

So the timing of when the leaves change the colour may gradually shift later over time.

Graph: Average Temperature in September, Sapporo (1944 - 2024)

Figure compiled by the author using data provided by Japan Meteorological Agency.

Anyway, the good thing is that there are more sunny days compared to June, July and August, so it is a better opportunity to go for a drive.

Image: Kuromatsunai - September 1970
Car/ Prince Skyline

The fewer clouds there are, the deeper bule the Sea of Japan appears. Also, with the arrival of autumn, the overgrown greenery starts to fade, making the scenery along the drive feel more open and expansive.

Image: 'Shakotan Blue', Cape Kamuy, Shakotan - September 2022

Since few people think to visit the beach in September, you can enjoy unusually quiet and scenic coastal views.

Image: Sambonsugi Beach, Setana - September 2008

OCTOBER

Mid-autumn is the best timing to collect Rakuyo mushrooms in the mountains. They are perfect for miso soup thanks to their rich flavour and silky texture.

But bear in mind that there are bears in the deep mountains - larger and more aggressive than those in other regions of Japan - so it is advisable to check relevant information on local government websites before setting off - and avoid venturing too far into the mountains.

Image: Nakayama-tohge - October 2012

Japanese people tend to enjoy enakai (宴会: えんかい/ get-together drinks or office parties), hanami in spring, BBQs in summer and shin-nen-kai in winter, for instance. However, kanpu-kai (観楓会: かんぷうかい) in autumn is held in only Hokkaido. It usually takes place at onsen ryokan, with an overnight stay. These kinds of events may be becoming a bit old-fashioned among younger generations, though.

NOVEMBER

Everyone may be busy in November with the final spurt of preparation before the winter season. Bears continue eating to prepare for hibernation, squirrels collect acorns and bury them, and birds start their long migration.

The image below shows a row of poplar trees near Sapporo Dome. There are other scenic spots in Sapporo worth visiting. For example, the 12-jo Gate of Hokkaido University is covered with beautiful yellow leaves in autumn. When I was a university student, looking up at the ginkgo leaves while walking through them to my faculty building was pure bliss - apart from the smell.

Image: Toyohira-ku, Sapporo - November 2013

One of the challenges of visiting Hokkaido in November is that it is already quite cold, so you will want to wear winter clothing.

DECEMBER

Towards the end of the year, it begins to snow before Christmas Day and winter break arrives, followed by Ohmisoka (大晦日: おおみそか/ 31st December). Curiously, many Japanese people celebrate Christmas Day, Ohmisoka and Ganjitsu (元日: がんじつ/ 1st January). Each of these originates from Christianity, Buddhism and Shinto, Japan's traditional religion. 

I remember being surprised that people willingly visited shrines on the 1st of January (even on the 2nd or 3rd) when I was living in Nagoya. I knew some people in Sapporo did as well, but it was not as common there, cos' January in Sapporo is freezing!

Generally speaking, people living in Hokkaido tend to become debusho (出不精: でぶしょう/ someone who refrains from going out and ends up staying at home all the time) during the snowy season. I guess it is understandable - after all, if it is snowing outside, most people would rather stay warm indoors

Image: Minami-ku, Sapporo - December 2008

By the way, what I really hated when I was living in Aichi Prefecture was that most people would always say to me, 'You’re always complaining - how come you can’t stand the cold if you’re from Hokkaido?'

Whenever I got that question, I would always say, 'Cos' the thermal insulation in my flat is rubbish, the heater's weak, and only the ceiling side of the room gets warm! So my room stays cold forever! And It's cold outside - of course it is, it’s winter! I’m human, just like you! ' 

In my case, without exception, every single person there asked me the same question whenever this topic came up. Perhaps no one knew how warm it is indoors in Hokkaido.

I used to stay at home in a T-shirt when I was living in Hokkaido - something that never happened in Nagoya.

Anyway, perhaps the main event in December for many people in Hokkaido may be having Osechi (おせち/ a traditional cuisine) on the 31st.

JANUARY

When the coldest month came, we often went skiing when I was a child. After I left Hokkaido, I went snowboarding during a stay there.

There is a lot of snow in most parts of Hokkaido and children are keen on making kamakura (かまくら/ snow domes). As a child, I watched my father and brothers wield their shovels and shape the dome.

Image: Niseko - January 2009

Occasionally, even my father would create a small ski slope in the garden. I reckon that is a privilege unique to only snowy regions. 

Image: Homemade ski slope - January 1985

Image: Skiing at home - Abashiri in the 1950s

Image: Small ski slope in a park, Toyohira-ku, Sapporo - January 2004

FEBRUARY

Snowfall tends to peak towards the end of February. Since snow absorbs sound, you can experience a remarkably quiet world when walking outside during this season.

Everything is blanketed in snow, transforming the landscape into a serene white world. Take Lake Abashiri, for example -  its frozen surface turns into a vast,  perfectly flat white expanse that is truly worth seeing.

Image: Lake Abashiri - February 2006 

The Sapporo Snow Festival is held in February. According to the Japan Tourism Agency, it originated in 1950 when school students constructed six snow statues in Odori Park. It has since developed into an event that attracts over two million people from all over the world.

Image: Sapporo Snow Festival - Around 1965

MARCH

March is a time to say goodbye to people, such as classmates, family or colleagues. Graduation ceremonies are held during this month, and many new graduates leave to begin working outside Hokkaido, just like me.

The graph below shows how much snow remains and average temperatures in March in Sapporo. At the beginning of March, temperatures are still below zero degrees Celsius. So warm winter clothing is essential.

Image: Toyohira-ku, Sapporo - March 2013

Graph: Maximum Snow Depth and Average Temperature in March, Sapporo

Figure compiled by the author using data, averages calculated from 1991 to 2020, provided by Japan Meteorological Agency.

Many admission results, such as those for universities and high schools, are released by the end of March. As a result, there are common expressions used to convey the outcome - ‘桜咲く/ The sakura has bloomed’ meaning you have passed the examinations, and ‘桜散る/ The sakura has fallen’ meaning you have failed.

Yet again, in Hokkaido, there are neither sakura trees blooming nor falling in March.

The four seasons in Hokkaido offer an enduring sense of connection with nature. Its abundant natural environment and isolated northern location make Hokkaido truly unique. Perhaps it would take a lifetime to appreciate all of its wonders, but I would be deeply grateful if you visited Hokkaido even just once.