Ginkon-yu

Image: Onsen - August 2025

Onsen (温泉: おんせん / hot springs) are one of the highlights of travelling in Hokkaido. As a child, my parents often took me to various Onsen ryokan (旅館: りょかん / a traditional place to stay for a trip) and I also enjoyed staying at many ryokan with friends during my university years.

If you are a veteran traveller in Hokkaido or have been living in Japan for a long time, I would like to introduce ryokan located in Yakumo Town, Hokkaido.

Ginkon-yu (銀婚湯: ぎんこんゆ), meaning Hot Spring of the Silver Wedding Anniversary, is undoubtedly one of the finest Onsen ryokan in Hokkaido. 

According to its official website (Japanese webpage), the Ainu people appear to have bathed in the hot springs of this area a few hundred years ago. A record of bathing in 1846 (during the Edo period) by the explorer Takeshiro Matsuura appears in Ezo Nisshi (蝦夷日誌: えぞにっし), a chronicle of his explorations in Hokkaido, Karafuto, Kunashiri and Etorofu islands from 1845 to 1849. 

In 1925, Onsen source was developed through excavation, led by Fukutaro Kawaguchi. It was also the year of Emperor Taisho's Silver Wedding Anniversary, which inspired Tone - the wife of Fukutaro - to name the ryokan Ginkon-yu.

Image: Facade of the building - August 2025

This is why the building may appear quite old but the corridors, rooms and other facilities are well maintained and kept very clean. The details of the guest rooms can be found on this webpage (Japanese page).

Image: Old but clean - August 2025

Image: An old fan　　　　　 

Some of the equipment are quite old. This Sanyo-fan is probably from the 1980s.

　　　　　　Image: An old heater

This is also Sanyo-made and may also be from the 1980s. Another heater I saw, manufactured by National, is also old.

There are basically two yokujo (浴場: よくじょう / public bathhouses), one for women, the other for men. Also, the two yokujo alternate depending on the time of day, so you may be able to enjoy both during a one-night stay. (0:00 to 10:30 and 12:00 to 23:30)

Shampoo, conditioner and body soap are provided, but there is no facial soap. Small towels, bath towels, yukata and tabi (足袋: たび/ traditional Japanese socks) are offered in the guest room. One of the towels - the white one - is 'Omochi-kaeri-okay (お持ち帰りOK)', meaning guests are welcomed to take it home. This custom only applies to ryokan, does not apply to hotels. If you are unsure whether you are staying at a hotel or ryokan, it is best to check at reception to clarify.

Image: Yokujo - August 2025

Image: Yokujo - July 2015

Image: Omochi-kaeri-okay towel

Hair dryers, a fan and a weighing scale are available in the datsuijo (脱衣所: だついじょ/ changing rooms). 

Image: Cute wooden chairs in the datsuijo - August 2025

Actually, there are 11 baths in total, including two roten-buro (露天風呂: ろてんぶろ/ outdoor baths), one in each of the yokujo I mentioned earlier. The remaining seven requires you to walk and bring the items you need, such as soap, shampoo, towels and so on. You can see where they are on this webpage (Japanese). You can ask for the keys at the reception desk if you would like to try these. Bathing in these seven at night is not permitted.

Image: Roten-buro - July 2015

Image: Roten-buro at night - July 2008

Image: Noten-buro, Sugi-no-yu (杉の湯: すぎのゆ) - July 2015

Image: Noten-buro, Momiji-no-yu (もみじの湯) - July 2009

However, there is a problem when you would like to try roten-buro in summer. There are a lot of abu (アブ/ horseflies), especially July to August. So I usually avoid bathing in the roten-buro during the summer if I often see abu around the onsen. 

The paths leading to the noten-buro (野天風呂: のてんぶろ/ outdoor baths set in open nature) are especially beautiful in spring or autumn, rather than in summer, with various flowers in spring or yellow and red leaves in autumn.

Image: Entrance of the path - August 2025

The garden is also well maintained, with a footpath leading through it. Also, you can see some related images on the official webpage.

Image: Garden with a footpath - August 2025

Image: Slightly scary suspension bridge to walk across - August 2025

Image: Suspension bridge - July 2012

Image: Path in the garden - July 2011

Image: Worth visiting even just for a walk - August 2025

Image: In autumn, provided by the official HP

The remarkable thing about the onsen here is its kake-nagashi system (かけ流しシステム), which means that natural hot spring water is used without any filtration, circulation and additives. Only spring water is added to adjust the temperature for comfortable bathing, according to the official HP (Japanese page). The system overview and details of the mineral composition are also introduced.

The image below shows the breakfast that I had, which prioritises a healthy diet over feeling of fullness. Dinner. however, is a different story. You can view images of the types of cuisine typically served on this page, and dinner may vary depending on the season. 

The rice brand is Yume-Pirika (ゆめぴりか), which means 'a beautiful dream'. The name combines 'Yume (dream)' in Japanese and 'Pirika (beautiful)' in the Ainu language. This brand is quite well known throughout Japan. 

You are welcomed to ask the staff for okawari (おかわり/ a second helping) of rice and miso soup. Green tea and coffee, which are self-service, are also okawari-okay.

Additionally, if your Silver Wedding Anniversary falls within two months before or after your stay, you may wish to inform the staff when booking. Something special may be kindly offered.  

Image: Breakfast - August 2025

The dining experience is fascinating. Each table is separated by a wall and the view from the room evokes a traditional Japanese atmosphere. You can see two images on the webpage - numbers 8 and 9 out of 11.

Each guest room has its own name. The image below shows 'Nishikigi' (錦木: にしきぎ/ a tree name) located in the new building. This room includes a toilet and a washbasin. Rooms in the old building do not have these facilities, but they are slightly more affordable. Other images are shown on the official webpage. The room is equipped with a small fridge, an electric kettle, and a fan, and is stocked with bottled water and green tea, but there is no air conditioning. Smoking is not permitted except in the designated smoking room. Accommodation fees vary depending on the type of room, ranging from ¥13,460 to 24,350. These rates will apply from December 2025.

Image: Guest room - August 2025

Soon after entering your guest room at ryokan, you will often find a small selection of welcome-sweets placed on the table alongside Japanese tea. These are typically Japanese traditional treats such as senbei (せんべい) or manju (まんじゅう), both well-suited to accompany tea.

If you decide to take them home rather than enjoy them on the spot, do bear in mind where you have packed them. My father once forgot he had tucked manju into his bag - and by the time he remembered, it had sadly gone off

Image: Senbei (せんべい) - August 2025

Reservations are accepted only by telephone and fax (between 8:00 and 21:00 in JST). Therefore, communication in Japanese is required and it is advisable to speak Japanese with the staff throughout your stay. Alternatively, I would recommend travelling with Japanese-speaking friends as ryokan stays often involve close interaction with the staff, which can greatly enrich your cultural experience and understanding.

Although the official website features an 'English' button, it redirects to a personal blog rather than an official page. Unfortunately, there does not appear to be any way to make a booking online in English.

The only thing that makes me hesitate to visit Ginkon-yu is its distance from Sapporo. As shown on the map below, it takes over three hours to reach by car, whether or not one uses motorway. Driving on the winding mountain road with no traffic lights is not easy, especially due to the tension it creates. It gets far worse in winter, so I believe most locals avoid driving such a long distance between December and February - just as my parents do, and as I used to. 

According to the Hokkaido Prefectural Police (in Japanese), the highest number of traffic accidents on the Doh-Oh Motorway occurred between Yakumo Interchange and Kunnui Interchange from May to October over the past 5 years, with a total of 94 incidents recorded.

 

I would like to advise those planning to visit Ginkon-yu by car from Sapporo, 'avoid using the motorway' - even in summer - and 'do not attempt the journey by car' in winter. I witnessed two traffic accidents during this trip, so please drive slowly and carefully, and take regular breaks. Also, always keep a safe following distance. Do not forget to use the toilet when you have a chance - as is often the case, facilities can be hard to find along certain routes, especially between towns.

If you are flying to Hokkaido from another region of Japan, the best way to reach Ginkon-yu may be via Hakodate. After arriving at the Hakodate Airport, you can rent a car - it is about an hour's drive to Ginkon-yu. 

Taking the train is another good option. The nearest station to Ginkon-yu is Otoshibe Station (落部駅: おとしべえき) and Ginkon-yu offers a pick-up service, which requires advance booking. It takes 15 minutes from the station. 

Image: Entrance - July 2013