Route 229

 Image: Raiden Onsen-kyo (雷電温泉郷: らいでんおんせんきょう) - Summer 1977 

Route 229 is one of the most memorable routes for me. When I planned a camping trip with my university friends, we chose to avoid crowded places such as Otaru and Ishikari.

So, we drove along the coastline - taking Route 229 from Otaru, passing through Yoichi, Furubira, and Bikuni, all the way to Shakotan - enjoying the scenic views along the way.

Map: Route 229

On top of that, my father used to take me to Kamoenai, Tomari, Iwanai, Suttu and Shimamaki - sometimes even as far as Setana - from Niseko, where our family often stayed every summer and winter. 

That is why, the coastline along Route 229 holds a special place in my heart. It offers a variety of attractions that people of all ages can enjoy. 

So, allow me to begin with Shirafura in Otobe Town, located in the southern part of Route 229. I will head north later.

Image: Shirafura, Otobe - August 2025

Shirafura, meaning 'a white incline', is a cliff approximately 20 metres high and 500 metres long. According to Otobe Town (in Japanese), it is said to have formed when white rocks accumulated following a volcanic eruption around 5 million years ago.

There is an observation deck with clean restrooms (open from 9:00 to 17:00, April to November) and a small car park.

Although it was cloudy when the image above was taken, the landscape was still stunning, with a clear view of the coastline.

The next location is Setana Town, home to a beautiful sandy beach dotted with uniquely shaped massive rocks. Since it is far from the Sapporo area, you can expect a quieter, less crowded camping experience. The parking area is spacious, and the site is equipped with toilets and showers.

Image: Sambonsugi Beach, Setana - Summer 1985

Let us move on Shimamaki Village.

This coastline used to feature rocks with unique formations, such as the one shown below called 'Kabuto-iwa (兜岩: かぶといわ)'. 

However, some of them are no longer visible to drivers. Following the collapse incidents at Toyohama Tunnel in 1996 and at Second Shiraito Tunnel in 1997, Route 229 was reconstructed with a focus on safer routes. As a result, it was shifted further inland in many areas.

Safety First is essential but it is unfortunate that we can no longer enjoy such a wonderful view.

Image: Former Kabuto-iwa Tunnel- August 1982

The image below was taken on the former Route 229 in 2000, which is no longer accessible by car following the collapse at Second Shiraito Tunnel in 1997. The collapse site in this picture lies in the direction the woman is facing.

Image: Former Second Shiraito Tunnel (collapse site) - 2000

After the incident, both the First and Second Shiraito Tunnels were shut down and are no longer accessible, which led to loss of some scenic views while driving. The current Shiraito Tunnel is now in use from 1999. Before the incident, we could see Shiraito Waterfall and a strangely shaped rock.

Image: Shiraito Waterfall near First Shiraito Tunnel - Summer 1982

 

Image: Road Shoulder near First Shiraito Tunnel - Summer 1985 / Car: Volvo 244

The road in the image above was relatively new but this section of Route 229 has been replaced by the new Shiraito Tunnel.

Next is Suttu Town. The image below shows 'Nishin-Goten (鰊御殿: にしんごてん)', which was built around 1897, without using any nails. It was one of the most expensive buildings of its time, according to Suttu Town Tourist Information (in Japanese). 

I am unsure how impressed my father was by this historical structure but it always seems to make him to grab the camera whenever driving on this route.

Image: Nishin Goten, Suttu - 1968

Image: Nishin Goten, Suttu - Summer 1985

Image: Nishin Goten, Suttu - August 2025

Incidentally, one of the series of identical-looking buildings here has been converted into a Japanese Soba restaurant.

Image: Suttu - Summer 1968

Heading towards Iwanai from Suttu, there is a shore called 'Raiden (雷電:らいでん)', which has a cool-sounding name. The beach consists of large rocks and unique terrain. It was also popular as an onsen area, known as Raiden Onsen-kyo (雷電温泉郷: らいでんおんせんきょう). The image at the top of the chapter was taken at Raiden Onsen-kyo in 1977. There were several onsen ryokan around, but now they are all abandoned and in ruins.

Image: Raiden Onsen-kyo (雷電温泉郷: らいでんおんせんきょう) - Summer 1977 

The next image is Benkei no Katana-gake Iwa (弁慶の刀掛岩: べんけいのかたながけいわ). Benkei was a historical figure, and the origin of the name comes from the legend that he hung his katana (Japanese swords) there, according to Iwanai Town Information portal site (in Japanese). It is a symbolic rock for Iwanai Town.

Image: Benkei no Katana-gake Iwa (弁慶の刀掛岩), Iwanai - February 2007

Personally, the photo below is a typical image of Raiden, featuring many rocks and unique terrain. There is a car park near the spot where the picture was taken, so you can try the same angle as this photo taken 40 years ago.

Image: Raiden, Iwanai - July 1983

Tomari Village is known for hosting the only nuclear power plant in Hokkaido. Heading north past the plant, Route 229 runs along the coastline. Sakazuki Beach (盃海水浴場: さかずきかいすいよくじょう), which is popular for its Benten-jima, is located just before entering Kamoenai Village. You can see unusually shaped rocks, various seaweeds and a variety of sea creatures in the clear water. There are onsen ryokan nearby and the area is suitable for camping, with toilets, showers and a car park available. 

Image: Sakazuki, Tomari - August 2011

The next village, Kamoenai, offers Route 229 a long coastline with scenic ocean views. There is Michi-no-eki (道の駅: みちのえき), Osukoi! Kamoenai (オスコイ！かもえない). 

The Village name, Kamoenai, comes from the Ainu language, meaning 'a beautiful and mysterious ravine', according to Kamoenai Village (in Japanese).

The image below was taken just in front of Osukoi! Kamoenai.

Image: Kamoenai - September 2022

When you go round the Shakotan Peninsula, you simply cannot miss visiting Kamuy Misaki (神威岬: かむいみさき/ Cape Kamuy). It is sometimes closed due to weather conditions, such as strong winds. The gate's opening hours vary by season and can be checked on this webpage.

'Shakotan Blue (積丹ブルー: しゃこたんぶるー)' is a common phrase used by locals to describe the enduring beauty of the view at Cape Kamuy. The first photo was taken when the gate was closed due to windy weather, while the second shows the cape in the best condition.

Image: Cape Kamuy - July 2005

Image: Cape Kamuy - September 2022

I will not post an image of the tip of the cape, so you can visit and see it for yourself. The round trek takes approximately 40 minutes, and the scenery that surrounds you in every direction as you walk is beyond description. 

You will have a great time on both outward and return paths.

I heard from an Australian, who has been living in Sapporo for over 30 years, that Cape Kamuy was really crowded when he dropped in. So I would like to check it out when I go back to Japan next time. 

Another recommended location in Shakotoan is a sandy beach. It is the best place to go camping in summer, away from the crowds. Noduka is a good camp site with toilets, tap water and a car park, but I preferred camping at Nishikawa, just next to Noduka, because it was less crowded.  

Image: Nishikawa, Shakotan - July 2004

Image: Nishikawa, Shakotan - July 2005

At night on the beach, you can easily spot shooting stars within 5 minutes of looking up.

The next image was taken at Ohgon Misaki (黄金岬: おうごんみさき/ Cape Gold). I am not sure why the photo turned out so blue, but there is a unique small island nearby, called 'Takara-jima (宝島: たからじま/ Treasure Island)'. When viewed from the sky, the island is shaped like a heart. You can check the shape on this page.

If you are visiting by car, you have to park at the Shakotan Sightseeing Information Center, which is just a 2-minute walk from the entrance to Ohgon Misaki. (see the map below)

Image: Ohgon Misaki (黄金岬: おうごんみさき), Bikuni, Shakotan - Summer 1974

Map: Shakotan Sightseeing Information Center car park

The collapse incident at Toyohama Tunnel in 1996 occurred in Furubira Town. The site is no longer accessible and affected area was replaced by new Toyohama Tunnel, a long tunnel. Just next to the entrance of the new tunnel, there is a plaza, where the memorial monument to the victims stands, near Seta Kamuy-Iwa (セタカムイ岩).

A bus and a vehicle were instantly crushed by a massive bedrock that fell onto the Toyohama Tunnel, resulting in 20 fatalities, including several teenagers.

There is a large car park, toilets, a good ocean view and a vending machine, so while taking a break, please put  your hands together in front of the monument.

Image: Seta Kamuy-iwa and the memorial monument plaza, Furubira - August 2025

Map: Location of the memorial monument plaza

In Yoichi Town, there is a 43-metre-high rock formation called 'Candle Rock' located 500 metres off the coast. (Source: Yoichi Town) This formation, known as 'Rosoku-Iwa: ロウソク岩', means 'candle rock'. In the early morning of April and May, the sunrise appears as if it is lighting the candle. In the past, this symbolic rock could be seen while driving along the coastline, but now it is only visible from a car park or by trekking.

Image: Rosoku-iwa, Yoichi - August 2025

Map: Car park for Candle Rock

Route 229 connects with Route 5 and they share the same roadway in the Otaru area. My favourite, Shioya Beach, is located just beyond Ranshima Beach in Yoichi Town. I have introduced Shioya Beach before. So I would like to conclude with a photo of Shioya Beach taken from Shioyamaruyama.

Image: Shioya Beach taken from Shioyamaruyama, Otaru - August 2025