Shiretoko National Park

 Image: Route 334, Cape Puyuni, Shari Town, Shiretoko - October 2000

It has been 20 years since Shiretoko was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. In addition, it has a history of over 60 years as part of the National Parks of Japan, a system that aims to preserve the natural environment within its designated areas, according to National Parks of Japan, under the Ministry of the Environment, Government of Japan.

Shiretoko is undoubtedly one of the most remarkable destinations in Hokkaido. However, the long drive through Shiretoko is itself a joy and a highlight of journey. Naturally, hiring a car at Memambetsu Airport is a convenient option if you are travelling in from outside Hokkaido and wish to head straight there.

If you are staying in other parts of Hokkaido, such as Sapporo or Otaru in the Doh-o  region (central Hokkaido), driving to Shiretoko can be an incredible experience.  

Map: From Sappro to Shiretoko

You can take the express motorway from Sapporo to Asahilawa - the second largest city in Hokkaido. From Asahikwa, Route 39 offers a straightforward yet enjoyable drive towards Abashiri, passing through Kamikawa Town where Sara Takanashi, a superstar in women's ski jumping, was born and raised.  

Image: Route 39, Kamikawa Town - July 2006/ Car: HARRIER

Just before reaching Kitami, you will find a scenic spot called Sounkyo (層雲峡: そううんきょう). As you drive along the Ishikari River, you will encounter striking cliff faces.    

Image: Route 39, Sounkyo, Kamikawa Town - July 2006

Image: Unique cliff face, Sounkyo, Kamikawa Town - July 2006

On top of that, if you have the chance to visit Sounkyo in winter, a unique ice festival known as the Sounkyo Hyobaku Matsuri (層雲峡氷瀑祭り: そううんきょうひょうばくまつり) is held - usually from late January to early March. The site features numerous ice-built houses and domes, forming a village-like landscape. Do keep in mind, however, that temperatures can be extremely cold, so it is advisable to bring a proper winter jacket, boots and gloves. 

Furthermore, when I visited there, I took a bus tour as a long winter drive could be risky.

Image: Hyobaku-Matsuri, Sounkyo, Kamikawa Town - February 2006

After passing through Sounkyo in Kamikawa Town, Route 39 enters Kitami. As it is an easy road to drive, there is no need to grip the steering wheel with tension. If the weather permits, you will enjoy the rich natural surroundings and skylines.

Image: Route 39, Kitami - July 2006

There used to be a small amusement park called Kitsune Mura (きつね村/ Fox Village), where several varieties of foxes could be seen. Unfortunately, this park was closed, perhaps due to a lack of visitors, and drivers lost a convenient spot to stop for a toilet break.

Image: Route 39, Fox Village, Kitami - July 2006

Image: Route 39, Fox Village, Kitami - February 2006

In fact, the number of visitors to Shari Town in Shiretoko has been declining since its peak in 2005, the year Shiretoko was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, according to the Shiretoko Data Centre, Ministry of the Environment. Although the graph below illustrates a gradual recovery in visitor numbers following the impact of the pandemic in 2020, it appears unlikely that an upward trend will continue in the coming years.

Graph: The Number of Visitors in Shari Town (2001 - 2023)

The graph compiled by the author using data provided by Shiretoko Data Centre and a provisional version.

Thus, Route 39, which connects Asahikawa to Abashiri, has inevitably seen a decline in usage. Ironically, this means you may be assured of a quieter, safer and more relaxed drive. 

After passing through Kitami, you will arrive at Lake Abashiri. There is a good observation deck at Okhotsk Ryuhyō Museum, which offers views over the lake. In winter, the lake freezes over, providing visitors with a breathtaking white panorama.

Image: Lake Abashiri, Abashiri - August 1972

 Image: Lake Abashiri, Abashiri - October 2000

Image: Lake Abashiri, Abashiri - February 2006

Map: Photo taken place, Mt.Tentozan Observatory, Okhotsk Ryuhyō Museum, Abashiri

After that, Route 39 merges into Route 244 in the centre of Abashiri. From there, you can enjoy a scenic drive along the Sea of Okhotsk. The two images below were taken at a car park along Route 244 in 2006. The statues shown are called Nipopo (ニポポ), which means 'a small wooden child' in the Ainu language. Interestingly, you will find various Nipopo through out Abashiri. However, the ones pictured below were removed following the closure of the market to which the car park belonged.

Image: Route 244, Nipopo, Abashiri - February 2006

*These statues no longer stand. 

Nonetheless, after Route 244 bends slightly inland, it offers scenic views of Mount Unabetsudake and Sharidake. Route 244 then connects to Route 334, which opens up into a strikingly straight stretch of road, known as '天に続く道展望台 (Road to the Sky Observatory)'. As Route 334 begins to curve to the left, Shiretoko is just around the corner.

Image: Route 244, Mount Unabetsudake, Koshimizu Town - July 2006

Image: Route 244, Mount Sharidake, Shari Town - July 2006

Route 334 takes you north along the coastline of the Shiretoko Peninsula. On the right-hand-side, you will find a car park near a magnificent waterfall called Oshinkoshin. (Oshinkoshin no taki: オシンコシンの滝/ Oshinkoshin falls) 

Image: Oshinkoshin no taki, Shari Town, Shiretoko - October 2000

Image: Oshinkoshin no taki, Shari Town, Shiretoko - June 2009

The next spot may be the Cape Puyuni observation deck, located uphill after a sharp 180-degree bend on Route 334. As you can see in the photo below, it is a wide pavement rather than an observation deck. These two images below were taken from the deck.

Image: Route 334, Shari Town, Shiretoko - October 2000

Image: Route 334, Cape Puyuni covered with fog, Shari Town, Shiretoko - July 2006

 

Soon after leaving the deck, you will reach the Shiretoko National Park Nature Centre, which offers a short walk to a stunning waterfall called Furepe, meaning 'red water' in the Ainu language, according to the Ministry of the Environment (in Japanese). It is also known as Otome no namida (乙女の涙/ Maiden's Tears ) due to the delicate appearance of the falls.

Image: Furepe no taki, Shari Town, Shiretoko - July 2006

From there, I would recommend taking Doh-do 93 (prefectural road 93) to go further into the Shiretoko Peninsula. This area is essentially a nature zone, so I believe you will enjoy the beautiful scenery on the way to the Shiretoko Go-ko Field House as long as you watch out for encounters with wild animals, such as foxes or Ezo sika deer.

Map: Doh-do 93

Image: Doh-do 93, Shari Town, Shiretoko - July 2006

Once you arrive at the Shiretoko Go-ko Field House, it is a time to start trekking to see the five lakes: Lake Ichi, Lake Ni, Lake San, Lake Yon, and Lake Go. Their names literally mean one, two, three, four, and five in Japanese. Bear in mind, however, that these trekking paths may be closed if brown bears have been sighted around the area, so please check the latest information at the Field House.

They were not popular sightseeing destinations at all in the past but thanks to their inclusion on the World Heritage List, they suddenly took off. However, the location would gradually fade from memory once again.  

The image below was taken at the spot that touched my heart most deeply during the trip, though the photo cannot truly convey the impression it left on me.

Image: Shiretoko Go-ko Field House, Shari Town, Shiretoko - July 2006

Image: Lake Yon, Shari Town, Shiretoko - October 2000

Image: Lake Ni, Shari Town, Shiretoko - July 2006

Since it could be a long excursion, it might be a good idea to spend a night in Shari Town, watching the sunset over the Sea of Okhotsk.

Image: Sunset, Shari Town, Shiretoko - July 2006