Sunset coast

 Image: Shioya, Otaru - August 1975

As you can see on the map below, Hokkaido has a long western coastline, ideal for enjoying a scenic drive. The contrast of the blue ocean, blue sky and lush greenery creates breathtakingly vivid views. At sunset, the Sea of Japan (Nihonkai: 日本海 ) glows in beautiful shades of orange and red. Interestingly, even while driving along the west coast, you may also have a chance to see the sunrise - as shown in the image of Shimamaki below. 

Map: Hokkaido

Image: Sunrise in Shimamaki - May 2015

Most routes follow the shoreline, offering sandy beaches, shingle coves and rocky shores with striking formations - allowing for a wide variety of scenery while driving. Route 229, which connects Otaru and Esashi via the Shakotan Peninsula, showcases just such natural landscapes.

Map: Route 229

Image: Cape Kamuy, Shakotan - September 2022

Image: Benten-jima (弁天島), Tomari - August 2011

Image: Former Takanosu Tunnel (鷹の巣トンネル), Shimamaki - August 1982

Image: Abandoned Takanosu Tunnel - August 2006

*Current condition can be seen on this YouTube channel

Image: Former Kabutoiwa Tunnel (兜岩トンネル), Shimamaki - August 1982

*This tunnel is no longer accessible due to safety concerns

The current condition can be checked on this YouTube channel

Image: Right before the old First Shiraito Tunnel, Shimamaki - August 1982

Image: Abandoned First Shiraito Tunnel, Shimamaki - August 2008

(This shot shows opposite side of the 1982 photo)

*Access to this area is prohibited

The current condition can be seen on this YouTube channel 

Image: Sambonsugi Beach, Setana - August 1985

Image: Sambonsugi Beach, Setana - September 2008

(This shot shows a slightly different angle from the 1985 photo)

Driving on Route 229 in summer must be one of the best ways to experience Hokkaido. If you find a beach you like, why not go camping there? During my university years, my friends and I would set up a tent and spend a night on the beach in Shakotan every summer - gazing up at a sky full of shooting stars at midnight. Those memories remain vivid in my mind, even now.

However, the natural environment can sometimes bring not only pleasure but also fear and sadness. One such unforgettable tragedy occurred on Route 229, at the Toyohama Tunnel, in 1996. An enormous mass of bedrock - estimated at 11,000 m³ - collapsed onto the tunnel at approximately 8:08am on 10th February and the bedrock burst through its structure, striking a passing bus and one vehicle. They were crushed instantly, including several teenagers. As a result, 20 people lost their lives. ( Fujiwara, 1996 / Akazaki, Matsukura, 2001, : Japanese sites)

At present, the old tunnel has been shut down and a safer alternative route has been built and is now in use. If you have the chance to pass through the new Toyohama Tunnel, it may be worthwhile to make a brief stop at the nearby memorial to the victims. (at the western end of the tunnel)

Video: News footage from that time - Hokkaido Television Broadcasting Co., Ltd.

Video: Current Toyohama Tunnel

The causes of this incident have been examined but I shall refrain from discussing them here. Instead, what I would rather point out is that many tunnels have been replaced with new ones over the years - each time a natural disaster struck. As a result, some of the scenic views I once experienced can now only be glimpsed on YouTube, previously I mentioned, or from the deck of a ship. Still, I believe you will be overwhelmed by the natural beauty as you drive through Route 229.

Image: Kamoenai - August 1990

Image: Shimamaki - October 2011

Looking north, Route 231 also offers a pleasant drive. The long shoreline reveals an endless expanse of deep blue sea. The image below, kindly offered by a friend, shows the sunset near Ohgon-misaki (黄金岬), meaning 'Golden Cape'. It is well known as a spot for sunsets. Perhaps I will introduce Route 231 in more detail next time.

Image: Cape Ohgon (黄金岬), Rumoi - July 2025 / Car: Nissan X-TRAIL

Map: Route 231

Unfortunately, the old photos I have posted here do not quite capture the blueness of the ocean itself. If I come across such images, I shall update this chapter at a later point. 

In the meantime, you may gain a sense of its beauty by watching the videos I previously introduced. Or perhaps you might simply visit the site in person.

  

Image: Otaru - Summer 1980 / Car: Isuzu Gemini